Unless your Mike Holmes and you can swing a hammer like Thor, you aren't going to have fun doing this part. Check out this framing gun from Bostitch from Amazon , it's got fantastic reviews, great price, free shipping, perfect for finishing your basement.
They are not that badly priced and you can always sell it to someone else when you're done. Although I wouldn't, cause have a framing gun is like the pinnacle of being bad ass. That's it. That's blocking. See, not that bad, right? Next up - installing a firewall! Relax, it's not that bad either, but it totally freaked me out 'cause I thought I had missed my chance to install fire blocking and that I would have to tear down all of my walls.
Hey, dudes and dudettes, do you still have a question? Even after my redonkulous written explanation? I thought you might. Go ahead and ask it in the comments below.
I'm just sitting here doing nothing Signing you up Free Basement Cost Estimator. Here's the deal, if you'll give me your email address your good one, not that fakey one you have for male enhancement pills I'll send you some great basement content about once a week. Know what? You're about to get a new friend, me! Click the Button Below to Sign Up. Click the Button Below. How would you block against a concrete wall? I've got the concrete wall, then the first floor joist is 16" parallel off the wall.
I suppose I could nail gun a 2X6 or 2X8 to the concrete, then block off of that, but was hoping to find someone who had some experience with this.
Hey Justin - Welcome. You should not have to nail your blocking to the concrete wall. I'm guessing that what you need to find is your "sill" plate. It's a piece of wood about 2" inches high that is sitting on the very top of your concrete wall. It may be hard to see or covered with insulation, but it should be there. Find that bad boy, that's what you nail your blocking too. Hope that helps, let me know if this is not the answer.
I'm about ready to start framing my basement. This issue still has me puzzled a bit based on the situation of my sill plates and how the floor joists are positioned. My joists sit on top of the sill plates, thus I can't add blocking that is flush with the bottom of the joists. If I want the blocking flush with the bottom of the joists, then the blocking will be sitting on top of the sill plate, and I would have no way to nail the blocking to the sill plate because of very tight conditions.
Any thoughts? Brandon, I'm fairly good at visualizing and you wrote an excellent description. If your joists are sitting on your sill plates then you are working with a wall that is perpendicular to the joists Simply nail your wall top plate to the underside of the joists.
Am I under thinking this? Hopefully that helps, if you're still stumped or I'm not fully comprehending, shoot me a picture "jason AT ifinishedmybasement. I think I know exactly what Brandon is talking about since I just ran into this myself. Here is a picture which describes the scenario. The wall in this case is parallel with the joists so you need blocking between the sill plate and the 1st I-Joist. But the bottom of the I-Joist isn't even with the sill plate.
It's 1. TJI recommended to not nail blocking into the flanges but instead above them so that they sit on the flanges. Yes, you would definitely want to level the blocking not have it angled. My only concern with that diagram is that the drywall for the ceiling doesn't have a level block to nail to on the end.
If you toe-nail the blocking to the "flange" then you have a solid backing to secure the ceiling drywall. If I angle it to be flush with the I joist, will I have issues puttin up the wall. Any suggestions? Framing first, then electrical and HVAC. For the most part they are separate phases. You'll have to get your framing inspection done "before" you start your electrical work. If you have a lot of HVAC work to do, like adding a whole new trunk line, then you may have some framing to do to accommodate that.
Good question. Hey, Great article So now I know about blocking. I was having a heck of a time trying to toenail with the framing gun and was read to give up, but decided to try screws with a cordless driver. I had some 3. I highly recommend using screws if the space is tight and if you are not used to toenailing upside down.
Good suggestion Mike - My framing gun was definitely too big to work in tight spaces. Screws to the rescue. Some of my joist areas were so tight that I couldn't even get a cordless driver in there. Mike - That's a great tip. There were definitely a few times I had to do something similar. Plus it's just so bad-ass that you could nail something with the palm of your hand.
Hey, Jason, yours is my new go to site during my basement renovation. I have a neat one. My house is sixty plus years old. And a previous owner, used mortar to build a pretty ramp up the exposed edge of the sill plate and the top of the cinder block wall, so it slopes up and back at forty five degrees. I hope I don't have to chisel all that out of the forty foot wall requiring blocking.
In addition to considering the slenderness ratio limit of wood studs in their weak axis, the buckling capacity of load bearing studs should also be considered. This is accounted for in the column stability factor per NDS Section 3.
When using wood-frame shear walls, it is common to design the walls as blocked, resulting in significantly higher allowable shear capacities than unblocked shear walls. When designed as blocked, all shear panel edges must fasten to a common framing member; these common framing members are usually vertically-oriented studs and horizontally-oriented blocking between studs.
Section 4. The International Building Code IBC has fire blocking requirements that are intended to limit the spread of flames, smoke and gases in combustible concealed spaces such as a wood-frame wall cavity. These requirements, contained in IBC Section Additionally, IBC Section In construction blocking refers to pieces of wood or other material that run between wall studs in order to provide support and attachment sites for mounted hardware such as cabinets , shelving, or bathroom towel bars.
Construction Traditionally 2x4 or 2x6 boards are cut to size and nailed between studs. Since studs are usually spaced 16 or 24 inches apart scrap pieces of dimensional lumber can often be used. For maximum utility rows of blocking should be set at a predetermined height and installed flush with the interior plane of the wall. Individual boards should be secured with at least one nail or screw through each stud. Purpose Properly installed blocking is easier to find and use for attaching wall hardware than studs alone.
Once drywall , or any other material, covers the wall it can be difficult to find 2x4 studs for attachment, and the position of nails and screws must be adjusted to stud location. Thus, if blocking is installed at a uniform and predetermined height, attachment sites can be found without using a stud finder , and the blocking can be utilized anywhere along a wall at that height.
This is particularly useful for installing upper cabinets in kitchens or bathrooms as they tend to be fairly heavy and finding appropriate studs for installation can be difficult.
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